Xunqueira de Ambía to Lalín (By Bike)

At 75.3 kilometres, with a profile that drops to the 139 metres of the Miño valley before climbing to the 720 of the Castro Dozón pass, this is the hardest day of the Camino Sanabrés by bike. It links the collegiate town of Xunqueira de Ambía with Lalín, capital of the Deza region, crossing the province of Ourense from end to end along the historic N-525 corridor.

The departure from Xunqueira de Ambía takes place in the shadow of the Collegiate Church of Santa María, whose cloister and baroque organ are worth a visit before setting off. The first kilometres descend gently through the Arnoia valley, between farmland and small hamlets, until the terrain tilts decisively towards the Miño. Entering Ourense marks the lowest point of the whole stage: the city of the burgas, with its thermal springs and its Old Bridge on Roman foundations, invites a long stop before what lies ahead.

And what lies ahead is a relentless climb. From the valley floor the route gains almost six hundred metres in a sustained ascent through oak woods, chestnut groves and a succession of rural hamlets. The Cistercian monastery of Santa María de Oseira, known as the Galician Escorial, lies a few kilometres off the route and is worth the detour. Shortly afterwards comes San Cristovo de Cea, famous for its wood-fired bread with protected geographical indication, an obligatory stop to refuel. The effort peaks at the Castro Dozón pass, the roof of the day and the border with the province of Pontevedra.

From the pass comes the reward: a clean descent of a dozen kilometres that leaves the highlands behind and opens into the valley of the river Deza. Lalín welcomes the cyclist with all the services of a town of twenty thousand, undisputed capital of Galician cocido, whose winter fair draws thousands of visitors every year. It is a good place to rest the legs before the final day to Compostela.