Pola de Allande to Berducedo

The stage from Pola de Allande to Berducedo, around 18 kilometres long, is considered one of the toughest and most spectacular on the Camino Primitivo. Its difficulty lies not so much in the distance as in the elevation: it overcomes the climb to the Puerto del Palo, at 1,146 metres, the highest point on the entire route. It is a high mountain day that calls for good preparation, suitable footwear and attention to the weather, as the surface is uneven and the exposure considerable.

Leaving Pola de Allande, at 525 metres, the great challenge of the day begins almost at once. For around eight kilometres the path climbs steadily, first through oak woods and then across open hillside, gaining height patiently. The effort is rewarded as the horizon widens and the ranges of western Asturias appear, tier upon tier. The final part of the climb is the steepest, just before reaching the pass.

The Puerto del Palo is the heart of the stage and one of the most symbolic places on the Primitivo. At 1,146 metres it marks the highest point of the Camino and a turning point: here the pilgrim leaves behind the valleys of Allande and looks out over the stretch leading towards Galicia. On clear days the views take in a sea of peaks. It is also a harsh spot, swept by wind and prone to fog and snow in the cold months, so it is best not to linger there.

After crossing the pass, the path begins a long descent. It crosses the upland pasture of Montefurado and drops among meadows, heathland and small woods towards the hamlet of Lago, now close to the destination. From there, a final stretch leads to Berducedo, a village in the council of Allande lying at around 710 metres. The settlement, modest but well provided with services for the pilgrim, makes a well-earned halt before tackling the next day the steep descent to the Salime reservoir and the subsequent climb towards Grandas de Salime.