Stage Vila do Conde to Barcelos por São Pedro de Rates

This day acts as a bridge between the Coastal Portuguese Way and the Central Way: it leaves the Atlantic shore at Vila do Conde to seek, inland, the historic route that rejoins the main way at São Pedro de Rates. It is about 37.5 kilometres of gentle but long profile, with no major climbs, rewarding the pilgrim with a clear change of scenery: from the murmur of the ocean to the Minho countryside of maize fields, vinho verde vineyards and granite hamlets.

The way out of Vila do Conde is guided by the monumental aqueduct of the Santa Clara Monastery, whose arches point the direction inland. The route, not always well waymarked in its first kilometres, is best followed with an app or GPS track until the urban fabric is left behind and rural lanes begin among farmsteads and small parishes.

The central landmark of the stage is São Pedro de Rates, one of the most storied towns on the Portuguese Way. Its Romanesque church of Saint Peter, from the 12th-13th centuries, is one of the finest Romanesque temples in northern Portugal and well worth a pause. From Rates the route now joins the Central Way and continues north, passing the well-known stop of Pedra Furada.

The final stretch runs among vines and villages until reaching Barcelos, on the banks of the River Cávado, entered across its medieval bridge. Capital of the Upper Cávado, Barcelos is the city of the famous rooster —symbol of Portugal— and a great centre of pottery and painted earthenware, with a lively weekly market. Its arcades, churches and the grounds of the former ducal palace welcome the pilgrim at the end of a long but level stage.